Melbourne - Devonport - Branxholm

Jan 12th - 14th

For the first time in my life I was able to say "I set sail for the night". I have been on a few barges, one or two hover crafts and a couple of booze ups on the river but never a proper boat and certainly not an allnighter. The sea wasn't particularly choppy but the car alarms on the garage decks were soon singing a merry song, good jod the sound didn't reach the sleeping deck. The sound of car alarms was superceded  by the worst snoring I have ever heard. The guy was lying on the floor between the recliner chairs and giving off a total foghorn. It's no lie to say that when he went to sleep there were about 10 around him in chairs and when he awoke all of us had moved to the other block. He will have risen with the thought "was it something I said". Yes mate it was.......

I arrived at Devonport at 6.30am and grabbed a coffee and sorted out my route to my hosts house in Launceston. It was a 60 mile day coming up and the terrain guide was showing quite a few spikes. Not one to worry I set off towards Latrobe hoping to see some of its famous Platypus. The only one I saw was it's Big Platypus in the town park which was competing with The Big Cherries to be the towns "official" big thing. About 30 miles in and with each town I reached bring nothing more than a cow shed I was starting to feel the heat so I pulled over at a farm to see if I could get some lunch in the shade of the barn. Good luck that I knocked on the right door as the farmer and his wife invited me in for coffee, biscuits and cake. They joined the growing list of superb people you meet when travelling by bike.

I made it to my hosts town around 5pm after a total of 62 miles a figure that seems to be becoming more regular. The hosts name was Mandy. She lived with her partner and their dog Gus. Her son, his wife and daughter were coming over to join us for a bbq of pork chops, vegetables and dressing. It was another great evening of food and conversation of which I'm truly grateful.
My next days ride was to Branxholm. A small village with a fully equipped free campground. The days ride was very similar to the last one as in it was 62 miles and very hilly. The real difference was it dropped very cold very quickly. It looks like a trip to a camping store for a few items of warm clothing. With me now going to New Zealand I was due to restock on a few essentials anyway. Loving Tasmania so far. Next stop, St Helens and the East coast.

Jan 10th - 11th

Melbourne

I've had 2 days of chilling and sorting out my future short term plans in Melbourne. As I was finishing the Great Ocean Road I was feeling under pressure to decide how to continue the trip. It was supposed to finish at the end of January but I decided to make some changes. With New Zealand being so close and from all the feedback people have given me I thought that I would give it one shot and get myself there while I'm this side of the world. The worst thing would be to go home and look back in anger at a missed opportunity. I would be telling lies if I said that New Zealand had been on my radar when I set off  but as with travel sometimes, well most times, you go with the flow and tend to not stay on a set route.
Before I go to New Zealand though I'm taking the night ferry over to Tasmania to spend 10 days cycling from Devonport to Hobart. One of my hosts was explaining how good Tasmania is for riding. Whether you are absolute beginners or experts Tasmania is perfect. Cheap camping, beautiful scenery and friendly people. It only costs $80 for a one way ticket straight into Devonport. The same host also said "wild is the wind" on the island and when the wind blows it makes you feel like your cycling up the hill backwards. Still while I'm my golden years a few hills and a bit of wind shouldn't give me to much trouble. My trusty legs have never let me down so far. Little wonder though I've heard tell of some strange animals to look out for on Tasmania. Devils are the most famous of them but you never know in this region whether there are some scary monsters hidden away.

I had a great day in the city again and spent most of it at the Andy Warhol and Ai Weiwei art exhibition. Some of the pieces are real classics   from the style of modern. Love the Elvis, Marylin Monroe and Elizabeth Taylor pictures. So many heroes from pop culture but i always thought Edie Sedgwick was his prettiest star. Warhol really liked to create a mixture of sound and vision pulling in faces that are instantly recognisable. He was able to take someone famous but present the picture so it was the star. Man I bet some of the big names he pictured were not quite sure what they let themselves in for, but the pictures live on and the gallery was packed. It was very impressive to see so many different nationalities all enjoying his subtle take on fame and fashion. There was more than one China girl and a lot of young Americans. The other artist is Ai Weiwei. Not someone I had heard of but I was very impressed with his art. He is Chinese and with most artists had suffered a bit in his homeland. From what I could see of his story, by the authorities he was classed as a bit of a rebel. Rebel may not be the word he would use, more, expressionist. So with everything booked for Tasmania and then New Zealand I'm able to ride, enjoy, experience and compose. Let's Dance..........

Jan 8th - 9th
Port Campbell to Warrnambool to Melbourne

The final day on the Great Ocean Road was actually really easy. The only bad thing were the flies. Any stopping to take in the view meant doing a Jack Douglas impression. Someone mentioned to me an action called the Melbourne wave where you constantly wave flies away from your face. It's really annoying and can ruin any picnic really quickly. Flies aside the trip to my final destination was flat and slightly down hill most of the way. I reached Warrnambool around mid afternoon and started to look for a wild camp spot. I noticed both a decent clearing in a park and an area behind the church, first though I needed to go to the charity shop St Vincents or Vinnies as it's known in Australia. The last two nights had dropped cold after dark so I thought best to look for a sleeping bag. I managed to get a great one for only $7. It's a fair thickness so will do the job especially in Tasmania and New Zealand.

After dinner I looked on wiki camps and saw a hostel showing close to where I was and in the comments it said that you can put a tent up and have full facilities for only $12. I thought it was worth the money for a few comforts so found it and booked in. Once sorted I went to the train station to sort a ticket back to Melbourne but the early train left at 5.30am and the later ones had a good chance of having no bike spaces so I reluctantly got the early ticket and set my alarm for 4.30am. Taking the tent down in the dark and trying to be quiet was not the easiest of things but I overcame it and made my train. I'm now back in Melbourne and going to Tasmania. I'm staying with a host who is a fashion designer in a smart area of the Melbourne midtown. She made a beautiful pasta dish for me. I'm really getting into these vegetable, spicy and salad meals. My next plan is to buy a new bike bag, sort my ticket for Tasmania and go and see the Andy Warhol exhibition currently on at the art gallery.

Jan 7th 

Apollo Bay to Port Campbell 60 miles

I had a good night at the Surfside Backpacker Hostel. The facilities were perfect for $20. I got talking to a French girl called Violet. She is from Brittany in West France. She has come to Australia to ride from Perth to Adelaide onto Melbourne then fly to Phuket to ride home back to France. She was going to ride through the Nulaboor desert from Perth but wisely decided against it. A desert in the hight of summer is never going to be easy. Not impossible just slightly dangerous.

We exchanged details as she is interested in going to Tasmania for a week at the sametime as me. 

I set off at 10am to get some good mileage before lunch. The hills made this very slow and hard work. The hill riding is never to much of an issue for me though you have to be in the right mind set. It's not a quick ride when hills are involved. Yes it's quick going down but if it takes 40 minutes to ride up and 4 minutes to ride down then your overall mileage 

Is going to struggle. The road came off the coast for most of the days ride until the 12 Apostles Rock range at the back end if the day. After lunch I saw some more Koala bears sitting in the gum trees. This time the rare sight was of a mother and baby Koala. At first it looked like one fat Koala until the babies head came poking out the mothers fur. 2 months without seeing any then 2 groups in 2 days complete with a baby. My day finished at the 12 Apostles just outside Port Campbell. I have seen some stunning views in the last 6 months and can rank the Apostles high on the list. It's now early evening and I got a spot in a nice campsite. Good shower, nice Chilli  Con Carne dinner and my neighbours in the caravan are playing a bit of David Bowie as the sun sets. Great setting for the long thin Duke to sing his tunes........Ch Ch Ch Ch Changes........

Jan 5th - 6th

Melbourne - Apollo Bay

The great ocean road has been on my to do list ever since I started planning the riding on this continent. The starting point is Torquay, just south of Melbourne and a short train ride from the city. It cost $8 for a ticket to South Geelong and I rode the 30km along a nice bike path and a very direct back road. My hosts for the night were a family who lived just off the main spine road through Torquay. Craig, Kara and two year old Lolita. Lolita is a very funny young girl who talks about herself in the third person. She says things like "mommy, Lolita needs to have a bath" rather than I need to have a bath. They are currently moving house so to take a stranger in for the night was that extra bit of kindness I keep seeing while bike touring. My room for the night was formally Lolita's but she is in with her parents while they move. I shared the room space with Bert and Ernie, Big Bird and Oscar the Grouch wall decorations and completed with Dora the Explorer bed linen.
Craig was kind enough to help me with some issues I was having on my bike and Kara made a beautiful steamed vegetable dinner.
There has been a lot of bush fires along the great ocean road in the last couple of weeks. Part of the road has been closed for the emergency services to only have access. Over 80 houses have been completely destroyed as the fires reached the actual beach front. Luckily for me on the morning I set off, with the possibility of a 50 mile detour around the best part of the whole road the affected part was clear and reopened. The road is fantastic to ride. So many times it reminded me of the Pacific Highway in the US. The wind has been helping for most of the day which can sometimes make or break a journey. I stopped for brunch at the 20 mile mark at the lighthouse featured in the children's TV programme Round the Twist the pushed on to reach Lorne then Wye River. The Lorne to Wye section is the part that had been closed. The fire damage is bad. Houses just along the cliff are completely gutted. You can see belongings still amongst the ruins. There is a Koala population in the area but I'm not sure how or if they were affected but there were some around in the trees just past Wye River. I spent the night at Surf Backpacker Hostel. It cost $20 to camp and use the facilities. Nice shower, kitchen, Wifi and lawn space with a gorgeous view. Next stop should be the 13 Apostles around 40 miles along the coast.

Jan 3rd - 4th

Beechworth - Melbourne

After finishing my first trail, the starting point for the next one would be a 40 mile ride through back roads to the town of Beechworth. It's unfortunate that the trail doesn't join as one big connection but the roads are so quiet that it seems trail like anyway. I spoke with the priest before I left and we talked about my travels and he was quite impressed with Canada to Mexico. I told him about the line of churches from northern to southern California called the missions. I explained that they were supposed to be at the top of the highest point of each town as to be closer to the heavens but this was of no comfort to a weary rider looking for sanctuary after a 40 mile ride in 90 degree heat. He flashed me the sign of the cross, gave me the blessing of the lone traveller and waved me on my way. The hills in this area are pretty decent, certainly not to be taken lightly. I took lunch in a small town with a beautiful cenotaph called Yackandandah. Remembering those that have laid down their lives for their country is an incredibly visual presence in Australia. Most towns have a memorial centerpiece and they usually are by a park with benches so stopping for lunch gives chance for reflection.
Following my GPS I took a turn into La Serena hill to arrive in Beechworth and meet my host Karen. She is a lovely lady, really nice home and 2 adorable cats. We had a good chat about travel. She recently cycled Tasmania and showed me her photos. For dinner she made chicken with broccoli, cauliflower and mashed potato. I told her I was going to Melbourne over the next few days and she mentioned she was going the next morning and that I could take a lift. This meant not doing anymore trails but she said I had finished one of the better ones anyway so I accepted her offer. We arrived in Melbourne and met Karen's friends for a ride around the south city bike path. We covered 30 miles in a few hours before looping back to the car. Karen dropped me off not far from my new hosts apartment and we said goodbye.
My new host lives alongside the Botanical gardens in an area called St Kilda. Her name is Bronnie. I've had two nights here and had a quick look around the city. It reminds me of Chicago. The Yadda river runs through downtown and they have a good tram system. On Tuesday I set off for the Great Ocean Road. There have been a lot of bush fires along a stretch from Apollo Bay to Lorne and there are some road closures but I'll find out more once the peddles are turning.

Footnote: I send my best regards to Angie, she has had to return home. Safe travels and Australia misses you.

December 31st - Jan 2nd

Travelling to Albury getting to Tallengatta


I have taken a bus to the town of Albury to ride the Murray River rail trails  on my way to Melbourne. Starting just outside the town of Wodonga I will follow the first trail down to Tallengatta. I sent out a room request and managed to score a host for New years eve. I played on it being my birthday and that I would like to see in the new year with other people.
Judging by the towns I am going through to get to Albury the nights celebrations will be a barn dance. It's all rural along these roads.
I met my new host at her home in the town centre. I had been invited out by Cara to a party happening later but first we would go down to the Murray River to do the "Corner" swim. What happens is you walk into the river then start to swim across but the flow and current is such that you can only get out a quarter of the way before you realise that you are being pulled down stream and round the bend by 60 metres to your exit point at the boating ramp. To see in the New Year Cara took me to a party at a bar in Albury. I met her friends, enjoyed a few beers, watched the karaoke and had a bit of a dance. Cara was an excellent host. It was her first time and has joined the group as she plans to go on a bike tour and wants to use Warm Showers while away. Fair play to her, she will be a great tourist I have no doubt.
Cara dropped me off the next day at the start of the high country rail trail  and I headed off to reach the town of Tallengatta before dark.
I made good distance in unreal heat along the trail and pulled over at the Huon Reservoir as I couldn't resist riding past without taking a swim. I had watched it appear on the horizon 30 minutes earlier and because of the heat and dust had wondered whether I was seeing my first mirage. It was definitely real. The joy of riding towards a lake nestled in surrounding sun scorched hills and being able to just put the bike down, walk in quickly then swim out and float is awesome. While floating I got talking to a young couple who were swimming. They gave me some good advice on the deadly snakes and what to do if bitten. I felt a bit dumb as this should have been information I should have already knew. If a snake bites then you are advised to not panic, stay still to reduce blood circulation. Put tight bandage on the area, if bitten on the foot for example then tight bandage up to the knee. This will help keep the venom local. The trails have markers with numbers on, these are to help locate exactly where you are. Call 000, note the type of snake, lie down. Strange that when back on the road a couple of days later I would almost ride over a Brown snake sunning itself in the bike lane. To say I almost shit my pants is close to the truth. Luckily for both me and the snake, I swerved in time.
At Tallengatta I looked for a wild camping spot. I noticed the area behind a cricket score board looked quite safe but before setting up I thought to have some food in the park. On the way I noticed the church doors were open so I pulled in to check it out. It looked a better spot than the other one so I knocked on the door to the vicars house to ask for his help. He was a bit hesitant as he was worried something may happen to me if I pitched up and that I would sue the church but I assured him my intention was to eat, sleep and leave. With his blessing (pun intended), I set up at the rear of the chapel and cooked my noodles, freshened up and with flights of angles carrying me to slumberland I safely drifted to sleep.