Sunday, 29 November 2015

November 27th - 28th - 29th
Scarborough - Caloundra - Alexandra Headland

We took the short (17 mile) ride to our next host in the coast town of Scarborough. The hosts name was Andrew, a fellow cycle tourist who had travelled a lot of Asia and New Zealand. His apartment was above a remedy cafe and right on the beach front. Once we settled in and freshened up we all sat and chatted about travelling. New Zealand and South Korea seem more and more appealing to me with each person I talk to. Andrew had cycled both and said nothing but good things. Later on this trip I will sit down and work out the how's and ifs and see if I can get these locations ticked off and extend this current trip.


We bid farewell to Andrew and Paul and set off for Caloundra. We were invited back if we loop back around to Brisbane which we will need to do now as by accident we kept Andrew's spare house key.
The ride to our host in Caloundra was a 50 mile all day journey along a few back roads until we joined the famous Steve Irwin Highway. This took us past his Australian Zoo, one of the coasts major tourist attractions. It had been cloudy and overcast all day but for the final 15 miles the sun came out which coupled with a hill named "little mountain" made the back end of the route pretty hard going. Still, we both completed it and it was a big moment for Angela as it was her first 50+ plus day. Our hosts in Caloundra were Brodie, his wife Koko and their super energetic daughter Katie. It's the first time on all my travels that I have turned up to a hosts home to find out its a top beach front hotel. Young Katie quickly told me to try the "Finland" pool. This was actually 2 pools, an ice cold one followed by a hot one. Ah man its good. Brodie is Australian and lived in Tokyo for ten years with Koko who is from Japan. They since moved back to Australia to run the hotel. Their daughter is speaking both English and Japanese. At 2 and a half years old she can have a conversation in both language's and confidently switch between the two. Incredible......

Our third ride was a short one to the coastal haven of Alexandra Headland. It was a nice ride along a beautiful river with houses backing on to the cycle path running along the river bank. Our hosts were Jim and his partner Megan. Jim is a native of California who emigrated to Australia 11 years ago. I enjoyed chatting about my USA trip as Jim knew the places well. We had a dip in their pool and a BBQ dinner before  a run through of possible future routes to take on the loop north then back down to Brisbane.

Due to the amazing food we have been given by our hosts it has become possible to remember them all not just by names or towns but by the food served.

Andrew/Paul - Turkey roast dinner and fruit sponge pudding.
Brodie/Koko - 3 homemade pizzas and passion fruit ice cream.
Jim/Megan - Cucumber soup stater, BBQ seasoned steak and pumpkin pie dessert.
I think there may be a potential cook book in the offing.

Thursday, 26 November 2015

November 24th - 25th - 26th
Bororen to Gympie to Shorncliffe and in Brisbane

The journey to Gympie took us via Rainbow Beach, a little village with access to a stunning front. We spent an afternoon sun bathing before going to Standown Park. This site is run by an ex soldier who fought in the Vietnam war. When he finished his service he went and worked as a life guard on the Sunshine coast. This was in the late 1970's when according to him you could drink the coast dry in a night. Now, he said there are so many bars there that he could have fought 3 wars by the time he would be able to sample every bar along the strip. Earlier today I noticed on my map that we were coming to the most unfortunately named town in Australia or maybe even the world, ISIS Central. How bad must those Towns folk feel? We're do you live? Oh, ISIS Central. More suprising was the next town was called Promised Land. So crazy, there is even an ISIS River and an ISIS Highway. I see social media full of Muslims saying ISIS are not real Muslims but spare a thought for the inhabitants of ISIS Central who have to keep reminding everyone that the Islamists and Jihadists from ISIS are not really from ISIS. You couldn't make this shit up......

Two bits of local knowledge, the United Kingdom could fit in Australia 31 times and the highest mountain in Queensland in Mt Bartle-Frere.

Our Warmshower hosts in Shorncliffe are Rose and her husband Ian. Rose was born in Sheffield but had travelled from a young age until setting up in Australia. They live on a road over looking the beach from the front and a tropical suberb at the back. We had a fantastic beef lasagne for dinner and listened to stories from her travels like she sailed from New Zealand to Australia in a boat through a storm that had the captain thinking the end was nigh. He didn't tell Rose that he thought they were finished until they were safely on dry land. We will be staying here for two nights which is fantastic as the views, local wildlife and community is brilliant. Ian mentioned two animals that come to the house every night. First is the Possums that get into the roof and run about or sit in the tree by the bedroom windows and the second is the green tree frog that sits on the window ledge. Both turned up on cue once the sun had gone down.
For our day in Brisbane on the 26th we took a lift from Rose with our bikes into the city and rode around the centre on the unreal bike paths. I thought Portland was number 1 but I'm not so sure anymore. The lay out follows the Brisbane river including the man made swimming areas, the botanical gardens, restaurant district, past the airport and back to Shorncliffe 18 miles away. It also goes out of the city in other directions creating one massive spiders Web of bike lanes. In this weather with this infrastructure I can't see why anyone would drive into downtown.

Monday, 23 November 2015

November 22nd - 23rd
Ayr to Mackay to Bororen

We arrived in Ayr looking for a campsite but as it was late , 7pm being late in these parts, we were refused entry to the first one we tried. After checking on Wikicamps we found a Big 4 site only a few miles away. Next morning we set off down the Bruce Highway heading as far south as possible. There were a few pit stops as this road is so monotonous you need a break to stop you going in a trance. That's a difference between riding and driving. We took a detour into the backpacker haven of Airlie Beach on one of the breaks. It's a lively town with a good beach strip. It looks well set up for bar crawls, students and travellers. I took over driving duties in the afternoon for my first go behind a wheel since June. 5 months of pure pedal power on 3 different continents.
We found a nice site in a town called Mackay and made use of the swimming pool and had dinner with a retired couple from Perth. They even shared their spuds and steak. The conversation was really pleasant about people being good to each other all over the world, about the diverse Australian eco system and the joys of camp life. While I have been traveling it has been moments like this that I have enjoyed most along with the riding and the weather. We pushed on today and made it to the excellent Bushchooks Campsite. This is a fantastic site with all the  facilities you could think of. $10 per night for a tent is around £6 and when I'm happy just for a plot and a shower and to have all that is here is superb. We have a plan now to get to Brisbane on Wednesday and stay with a family via Warmshowers for 2 nights and then cycle north and stay with another host further up the Sunshine Coast.

Just thinking Sunshine Coast during November when I see on Facebook that the UK has now had snow is so surreal. All my 38 years of being cold in November and all the time this has been here waiting for my arrival.

Saturday, 21 November 2015

November 20th -21st
Townsville & Magnetic Island

Our first night in Townsville staying with Peter and Kay was a pleasure. Great food and lovely conversation. We heard about their previous guest and about their own trips to the UK. Both love live music and told us about the time they saw the Rolling Stones at the old Wembley stadium. This was the early 80's when Mick and the band were about 80 themselves I think. Our plan for Friday was house cleaning our kit of items we don't need. It usually takes about 7 days to find out the items that are dead weight. Both of us have sent items in the post to my friend in Perth that we will pick up on our way home. First to go was our sleeping bags. In this heat I sleep o'natural. It's like sauna until the early hours. Also to go was my waterproofs as any rain that comes is quick and is followed by blazing sun. We rode into the down town area and stopped into The Bicycle Pedlar shop. We had a good chat with the owners and were suprised when one of them asked "are you Phillip from England" it turns out the owners Mick and Jenny were people I had sent Warmshower requests to at the sametime I had sent them to Peter and Kay. Its a small world in the cycling fraternity.
The next thing to do was to get a new tent for Angela. She has been using my tent that I bought back from the USA but I know from experience that it feels like a bit of a coffin. She bought a nice 2 man sized one which will make for more comfortable camping. The rest of the day was spent swimming, eating and feeding the local birdlife around the rock pool. I didn't know anything about Townsville before we came here but I can say that it is a fantastic town. Really clean and vibrant. On Saturday we said farewell to our hosts and took the ferry over to Magnetic Island. We did some looking around and ate at Picnic Bay before I took off to do the infamous "horseshoe" road that climbs the hills and connects bay areas on either side of the island. For the next few days we have hired a car and are driving down to Brisbane. The plan was originally to cycle there but the headwinds are at ridiculous levels. When we get there we will cycle north for 200 miles to reach Coolum Beach. This should use the SE trade wind and will make for a much better riding experience.

I want to give a shout out to our hosts for their wonderful hospitality and also a shout for The Bicycle Pedlar shop. This is the first shop on this continent I have seen that sells proper touring bikes. If I had arrived in Townsville looking for a new bike I know for a fact I would have had the bike of my dreams from them......The Surly Long Haul Disk Trucker.....she will be mine, oh yes, she will be mine.

Thursday, 19 November 2015

November 18th -19th
Ingham to Big Crystal Campsite to Townsville.
Total trip 450 miles

Sometimes on a tour you have to just deal with a crap session on the bike. Today was one of those days. Uneventful and dull. When your counting roadkill you know it's a duffer of a day. I put in 30 miles and called it neck at Big Crystal Campsite. The camp is our first government run ground so it meant paying online for a permit. It worked out a £3.50 for a plot with showers, tables, fire pits and access to a great swimming hole. I'm really enjoying these swims in natural surroundings. There is no creeping into the water trying to catch your breath. They are warm and soothing and a far cry from the Wolverhampton to Walsall canal.
Tomorrow I ride for Townsville to stay with a family for two nights and have a day on Magnetic Island. 
I cycled to Townsville in the worst head wind I have ever riden in. The will to carry on was being seriously tested. I don't often shout out while riding unless it's at a RV hogging the road but today I let out a few expletives, loudly. 
It was a case of head down and get on with it. I had to think of things that could be worse and when you stop to think like that it puts a head wind into perspective. 
Any bad day blues have been soothed by the wonderful hosts Peter "Mozzy" and his wife Kay. They have an amazing open plan house that Kay designed. It's certainly the first house I have been in with a 25 metre swimming pool. We are going to chill for a couple of days and look at changing the route as I'm here to enjoy myself and when you have to pedal hard downhill otherwise you grind to a halt that isn't my idea of fun.
November 16th - 17th
Mission Beach to Cardwell to Ingham 
Total trip 368

So after posting a photo showing a beautiful morning sunrise and adding the comment that I expected a good day it was at the hour mark that I had to pull in and fix my first puncture of the trip. Lucky for me it happened outside a farm so I was able to do it in the shade. At the 2 hour mark I pulled over to fix my second. Again, lucky for me it was in the shade of a watermelon stand. So much for my feelings and predictions. The campsite Angela was waiting at turned out to be another good one and on par with all the others we have used. The camps community kitchens complete with a barbecue and seating area's. It was pasta and sausage with a pineapple for a sweet. 
When I awoke to ride to Ingham I had to delay as we had a quick thunderstorm to sit out. Once it stopped I was hard at the pedals and clocked 21 miles in 90 minutes. The road and views were pretty uneventful except the vista point looking over Hitchinbrook Island. By early afternoon we were setting up camp at The Palm Tree Camp and looking on the map at interest points locally. We went to check out Jarouma Falls and Swim hole. This turned out to be a great choice. We swam in the pool that was at the base of the waterfall which I also managed to swim to and walk through and go behind like Mylenne but without the soap suds. I'm not a celebrity so leave me here please....

Sunday, 15 November 2015

November 14th - 15th
Atherton to Mena Creek to Mission Beach
Total trip 284 miles

I left Stephen and Trish at 7am to try and get some miles before the heat came. In this part of the world though it's pretty full on within a couple of hours so I was sweating buckets by 9. The views are spectacular and the iPhone camera does not do them justice. My first break came at a waterfall in Malanda. It was to early to take a dip as I was putting some good miles in so I ate a power bar and cracked onto the falls at Millaa Millaa. I also didn't swim here as the water was quite muddy. The falls were nice but when you can't see the bottom of the pool it puts you off a bit. The miles were clocking quickly thanks to a favourable wind so at the 60 mile mark I stopped at a Creek and hid the bike in the bushes and took a well earned plunge. For the remainder of the route I took the Palmerstan highway. A few long climbs but some exhilarating downhill runs. At 100 miles as if by magic I arrived at the Mena Hotel. I asked inside if I could set my tent up out the back and the owner said, as long as I came in and bought a beer. 3 beers and one plate of chips later and I was feed, showered and in the tent chilling. 
The ride to Mission Beach was only a 40 mile run but as usual with any location I ride with Mission in the name it always becomes one. One wrong turn sent me on a 5 mile loop almost back to where I started from and another turn sent me 4 miles to a locked gate. Finally the third ball ache was being attacked by Magpies. I have found that if you are close to where they have nests then they become really protective and swoop in and dive bomb passing cyclists or pedestrians. One attack caused me to ditch the bike and run up the side of a farm. I was told later that if I put cable ties all over my bike helmet it will stop them pecking my head. Next stop, a hardware shop.